Fighting engine corrosion

Fighting engine corrosion

Now that winter weather has set in, what do you guys think of running up the engine once or twice a week to keep the oil moving when uable to fly.

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

Have you asked this question to the A/P that works on the plane? Every A/P I've talked to has answered the question this way. If the engine has chrome cylinders it's better to just let it sit. Running up the engine on the ground does more harm than good. You will not get the engine sufficiently warm to "cook" off the moisture in the oil. You will only add to it. You need to fly in order to get the engine warm enough to do that.

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

    request something information about  engien   O-320 e2d and sessna 150 l .

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

Jay is correct, almost. Regardless of the type of cylinder don't simply let it sit. If the aircraft is going to be down for a considerable amount of time apply a preservative oil to the cylinders.

It is true that one of the worst things you can do to your engine is to start it and let it run for a few minutes and shut it down. As Jay said, the engine will not reach the proper temperature on the ground to burn off the moisture in the oil. Continental recommends you fly a minimum of one hour to sufficienty clear the moisture. Besides, by starting the engine and warming it up, you will actually introduce more moisture into the engine---warm engine + cool air = condesation.

Second, and most important in regards to corrosion, is it is not just the water in the oil that is the problem. The byproducts of combustion when mixed with water actually forms an acid. This too can only be expelled through flight. Each time you start the engine and stop it you will be increasing the acid content. Needless to say you do not want acid sitting inside your engine.

I do realize I am posting this after the season, but I am new to this site. After all, I am sure winter will be back next year, unfortunately.

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

I'd like to add...

You should also change your oil every 4 months regardless of flight time.  When you warm up the engine to remove moisture, you remove just the water.  The byproducts remain in the oil and you can never remove all the water content. As Paul points out the byproducts tend to accumulate and concentrate, so any moisture left in the oil becomes more acidic each time moisture gets in the oil.  That's why "they" recommend you need to change the oil every 4 months or so, even if you do not fly the 25 or 50 hours or whatever schedule you are on.  This tends to happen during winter when we in the high northerly or southerly latitudes (for our friends in the southern hemisphere) typically fly less due to icing conditions and snow.

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

Has anyone heard of the additive "Cam Guard" and if so, where I might find it. It was in an aritcle concerning engine lubricants and additives at one of my FBO stopovers and I cannot remember which magazine it was in. It reccommend Exxon Elite oil as the best for corrosion protection and Cam Guard as a good additive for protecting cam lobs. Thanks Bob
P.S.
     We used to do 7 day runups when I was in the Army, if we didn't get to fly a particular aircraft within 7 days. However I have read and been told by various "experts" that flying is the only way to go, and if unable for more than a month to put the engine into the long term storage condition reccomended by the manufactor.

DON MOSIER
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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

One need to add anticorrotion egent prescrib to fight corrotion

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

DON MOSIER Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Has anyone heard of the additive "Cam Guard" and
> if so, where I might find it. It was in an aritcle
> concerning engine lubricants and additives at one
> of my FBO stopovers and I cannot remember which
> magazine it was in. It reccommend Exxon Elite oil
> as the best for corrosion protection and Cam Guard
> as a good additive for protecting cam lobs. Thanks
> Bob
> P.S.
>      We used to do 7 day runups when I was in the
> Army, if we didn't get to fly a particular
> aircraft within 7 days. However I have read and
> been told by various "experts" that flying is the
> only way to go, and if unable for more than a
> month to put the engine into the long term storage
> condition reccomended by the manufactor.

I did the initial research on the Exxon Elite. 1-5 on my top 10 list of performance requirements were corrosion protection. The final formulation is a copy of the Aeroshell 15W-50 with half the synthetic basestock (a good thing) and only 0.05% of a rust inhibitor (not good). I developed Camguard because the Elite is just another 1970's oil. It offers 3-10 times the corrosion protection of the AS or Elite.

Regards,

Ed

Edward Kollin
Technical Director
Aircraft Specialties Lubricants - Makers of Camguard

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

Jay Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Have you asked this question to the A/P that works
> on the plane? Every A/P I've talked to has
> answered the question this way. If the engine has
> chrome cylinders it's better to just let it sit.
> Running up the engine on the ground does more harm
> than good. You will not get the engine
> sufficiently warm to "cook" off the moisture in
> the oil. You will only add to it. You need to fly
> in order to get the engine warm enough to do that.
>
>

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

I have a 170 A Cessna with an 0-300 continental that has about 400 hours on it since major with 140 having been put on in the last year. I switched oil from 50 weight shell to 15-50 shell about 100 hours ago and have added camguard 4 times ( I change oil at 25 hours) last week while attempting a take off an exhaust valve stuck open and got the immediate interest of me and my three passengers. Needless to say we got on the ground ok but upon opening the engine(pulling the cyl) we found an unusually large amount of carbon and don't have a clue as to it's origon. I always lean the engine on flights over 1500 feet and never cruise over 2400 R.P.M. unless at altitude. I have a car gas stc and use every other tank with cargas. would you continue to use camguard or whould i forget about it  thanks R.Simon This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

roger K simon Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have a 170 A Cessna with an 0-300 continental
> that has about 400 hours on it since major with
> 140 having been put on in the last year. I
> switched oil from 50 weight shell to 15-50 shell
> about 100 hours ago and have added camguard 4
> times ( I change oil at 25 hours) last week while
> attempting a take off an exhaust valve stuck open
> and got the immediate interest of me and my three
> passengers. Needless to say we got on the ground
> ok but upon opening the engine(pulling the cyl) we
> found an unusually large amount of carbon and
> don't have a clue as to it's origon. I always lean
> the engine on flights over 1500 feet and never
> cruise over 2400 R.P.M. unless at altitude. I have
> a car gas stc and use every other tank with
> cargas. would you continue to use camguard or
> whould i forget about it  thanks R.Simon
> This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
 
Roger,

I Recommend changing from Aeroshell 15W-50 to Phillips 20W-50. The 15W-50 definitely has a problem with deposits with both avgas and particularly with auto fuel. Usually people with Lycomings have valve when they first switch to the 15W-50. If your valves guides have soft, sticky deposits, it is the auto fuel. The Camguard still should have helped with this. This is the first time I have heard of a stuck valve with Camguard in the oil.

Concerning Corrosion protection, you will have much greater protection with Camguard than with ANY oil or additive.

Regards,

Ed

Edward Kollin
technical Director
Aircraft specialties Lubricants

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

Hi Roger,
I would recommend that from start up of the engine that you lean it aggressively. When you are in position to take off, then go to full rich. At cruise lean as usual. When you land, then lean aggressively again until you shut down the engine. This will really help keep the carbon down in the valve guides, and help spark plugs from fouling.
Glenn

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Re: Fighting engine corrosion

I CANT GET INTO THIS THING AGAIN

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