Glenn:

1) The breakin should be COMPLETE by 5 hours.  Period.  If it is not, something is wrong and needs to be addressed.  The last 150 or so engines we've broken in have ALL been finished with the process by about 3.5-4.5 hours.

2) That engine should NOT run hot.  Never let it get above about 380.  Close to the red line is BAD.  There are two basic issues.  Either it's not getting enough FF or the baffles are not proper.  The FF is adequate when the EGT is in the high 1200s or low 1300s on takeoff.

Feel free to call me to discuss the details.

Walter

Felipe,

Before you do anything else, have the temp guage calibrated. It's an easy process. We had an 172RG at the school I teach at and it was reading 30 F high.

Rich

Hello,  I have been having the same problem with a 0-235 Lycoming. It is running redline on the oil temperture. Sense it was just overhauled and past the break=in period, I suspect the wrong cam or the cam timing is off a tooth. I read a thread on a web site last year that said there are two cams for your engine, controlable pitch and non controlable, I think you have the wrong one. Check your part numbers.

Something else to consider is whether the overheating is a know problem for your particular Cessna model.  I had an overheating problem with my 1978 C-172N after correcting an out-of-timing issue with the O-320-H2AD engine. Checking and repairing the engine baffles didn't correct the problem.  I then discovered that Cessna had two Service Kits available to correct this problem. 

The first kit adds a lip to the bottom of the cowling to improve air flow through the cowling, and the second kit relocates the oil cooler to the rear baffle for inporved air flow through the cooler. The first was a $100 repair, and it seems to give me adequate cooling for most SoCal days.  The second is a $1200 repair, which I will hold off on unless the overheating becomes a problem again (I don't usually fly on 90+ days because I don't like sweating in airplanes).

Even with the mod, I usually try to maintain at least 80-85 knots on climb for adequate cooling on warm days.  I notice the oil temp will still run a little higher than I'd like if I don't, but will always come back to a comfortable level at cruise.  I was aborting fights on some warm days before the mod because the oil temp would hit red line about 10 minutes after takeoff.  Also, I recently switched from Aeroshell 100W Plus to the 15-W50, and it also seems to help my engine run a little cooler as well.

Hope this helps.

Jon

Send me an email and I can send you some photos. I just overhauled my O-200 from my C150 and have tons of photos of the baffling off and on the engine.
Reece

I have a C172K w/ 180hp conversion,CS prop. Every since I put on the Power Flow Exhaust system on last Sept. I have had problems with the #3 and some what with the #4, cylinders over heating on climb out. The cylinder head temps reach as high as 430 degrees and EGT 1450 +. Yet the oil temps and press remain normal. We have installed new baffling and enclosed the air around the air filter. I haven't had the C172 long and not entirely sure I didn't have the problem before I installed the tuned exhaust.


I live in the Boise Idaho area which is 2500 feet and it has been customary to lean slightly before takeoff but have quit that and waited until 5000 feet. Once at 5000 feet or higher I try to lean it back to about 9.5 to 10.5 gal/hr and #3 & #4 still heats up. The engine has less then 400 hrs. w/ECI cylinders.


I'm perplexed on what to do and would appreciate any suggestions.

Bob

Mr Nixon- I am sure Walter is referring to CHT, as most engine experts like to see CHT's in the 380-390 range on climb out, and never over 400 unless it's unavoidable (eg-terrain avoidance, etc).

JH

Hi i also have oil temp problems the same as most of you say,on climb hot days,my engine has about 240hrs to run,all baffles look secure in position,cowl flaps open on climb and sometimes in flight.Ive check and blown compressed air through the oil cooler looks clear no bugs or obsticles,the factory cooler looks too small and in a bad position at the back cylinder air flow wouldnt be very affective where it is i would like to put a larger oil cooler if possible space is a problem,as well as reposition the cooler towards the front of the engine somewhere airlow might be better any advice would be appreciated.Even when oil temp is hight oil pressure remains constant,i would expect it to drop as it gets hotter,cylinder head temp rises as well but minimum as i have digital cylinder head temp gauge and monitor it at same time.Engine uses minium oil,regular oil change ever 25hrs.Could the cooler be blocked alittle or have residue build up.Should i just buy a new factory cooler just to eliminate that.

I lived with the overheating problem for a while.  Changing the oil every 50-100 hours so as to get rid of any decomposed oil.

I finally isolated the problem.  by adjusting the cowl flaps to stay open with a bigger hole, the temperature finally started to behave as you would expect.  On climb out, it goes up but goes back to mid range after leveling off.  It is as simple as letting more air flow through the engine. Of course, this is after redoing the baffling; rebuilding the oil cooler.  So if you are having over heating problems check the opening of the cowl flaps.

Glenn

Was anything done to the oil cooler?  Simply flushing it out does nothing.