no, but...

you have to remove the lower link forward bolt so the weight needs to be on the nose gear for this. so...

1. with the aircraft weight on the gear, remove the cotter pin from the lower link forward bolt, remove the nut and remove the bolt.

2. raise the nose off the ground make sure you catch any shims that are installed in the lower link

3.This will allow the top cover to be removed

4. remove the cotter pin castlated nut and through stud from the axle, and the tow bar bolt and spacers.  The wheel pant can now be raised enough to see the gear fort lower lugs and, what Cessna calls the ferrules, that locate the axle in the lugs.

5. remove the ferrules and the nose wheel should drop out with a little help.

5. with the wheel out of the way you can rotate the pant so the fork can pass up through the top opening.

if the nose gear isn't high enough off the ground there won't be enough room to get the pant out.

scotty Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> no, but...
>
> you have to remove the lower link forward bolt so
> the weight needs to be on the nose gear for this.
> so...
>
> 1. with the aircraft weight on the gear, remove
> the cotter pin from the lower link forward bolt,
> remove the nut and remove the bolt.
>
> 2. raise the nose off the ground make sure you
> catch any shims that are installed in the lower
> link
>
> 3.This will allow the top cover to be removed
>
> 4. remove the cotter pin castlated nut and through
> stud from the axle, and the tow bar bolt and
> spacers.  The wheel pant can now be raised enough
> to see the gear fort lower lugs and, what Cessna
> calls the ferrules, that locate the axle in the
> lugs.
>
> 5. remove the ferrules and the nose wheel should
> drop out with a little help.
>
> 5. with the wheel out of the way you can rotate
> the pant so the fork can pass up through the top
> opening.
>
> if the nose gear isn't high enough off the ground
> there won't be enough room to get the pant out.

When the lower torque link bolt is removed and the nose is raised off of the ground, the lower shock strut will fall out, and with nitrogen pressure on the strut would be considered an explosive disassembly. There are two bolts that require removal to raise the wheel pant, one for the torque link that retains the wheel pant close out, and one bolt that retains the wheel pant that is also the tow bar lug. This bolt also retains the lower plug inside the strut, and with pressure on the strut will again disassemble itself with the help of a nitrogen charge. I suggest that you find a mechanic familiar with this task and get some guidance. This is not a hard task but you do need to be familiar with what you are up against, aside with making a huge mess personal injury is very likely. I would also suggest that you get some publications for this airplane and understand the systems. It is legal for the owner to do maintenance I/A/W FAR 43 App A "preventative maintenance" providing you have The proper maintenance documents, and it is not legal to perform maintenance without them.

Google "Essco".

Burt Moritz Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> before you lift the nose gear off the ground you
> better have the bolts back in place & the link
> reconnected or else it blows apart.Or the system
> depressed.
>
> You can do it safely but not with the above
> procedure, There are some steps missing.
>
> I agree you need the manuals & a mechanic familiar
> with this task and get some guidance.


there is a retaining circlip/lock ring at the bottom of the strut outer housing which holds the lower bushing/seal assembly in place.  There is another split ring  at the top of the "piston" (lower strut and fork assembly) that prevents the strut from coming out.  In addition with the weight off the gear. the pressure in the strut is around 40 psi.

Cessna does advise releasing the gas pressure prior to removing the torque links. However if the strut has been assembled correctly it will not come apart unless the lock ring is removed. 

Releasing the gas pressure is as simple as removing the dust cap and depressing the Schroeder valve (just like deflating a tire) and is equally simple to re-inflate once the job is done (with the weight off the gear) with dry air or nitrogen (though not preferred many people use just shop air for this with apparently no ill effects).  It's easier with one or both the engine cowlings removed.